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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble shop securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.